Ti2 Racing brakes install in a similar manner to any typical dual pivot brake caliper.

 

If retrofitting from a previous brake install, the only issue we have seen is on carbon frames and forks where the serrated washer previously used had dug into the clear coat on the carbon leaving an uneven mounting surface for the brakes. If this is the case, we recommend re-using the serrated washers so the brakes have a stable surface to mount to.

 

The position of the brake levers when they first engage, i.e. the gap from the brake pads to the rims, is very important to how the brakes respond. If you have a small gap and the levers engage fairly quickly as you pull them back towards the bars, the power comes on sooner (of course) and ramps up more quickly than if you engage the levers later. The trade off with this is you loose modulation and “feel” somewhat. To some extent, it is a purely personal preference where you set the brake levers to first engage. Please experiment to determine what position is best for you.

 

To facilitate this, and also if you are installing them with Shimano levers, initially have the barrel adjusters set so there is roughly 4mm of thread showing when the installation is complete. This will allow you to spin the barrel adjusters down, which will open up the calipers and engage the brake levers later. Because there is not a classic style quick release on the caliper, it will also allow you to open up the arms to remove/install wider tires if mated with Shimano levers.

 

The little hex wrench, size 1/16”, is for the arm side-to-side FINE adjustment only.However, most people just grab the whole caliper and rotate it to center the arms, the same as they do with any other dual pivot brake. Either way works.

 

The extra 7075-T6 blue anodized M4 screw is a replacement for the setscrews that hold the pads in the pad holders. You don’t have to tighten them down very much because they are non-load bearing and just have to hold themselves in place. But at some point you may lose one, or will over-tighten one and start to strip the hex. Hence the need for a replacement.